XL500 Crankcase Numbers Question

[sweepleader]

I posted this issue elsewhere so please ignore if you have already seen it, thanks.

I have a Homelite XL-500 that I have owned since it was new. It is in good shape except for a hot running problem that I believe is in the ignition somewhere. I purchased the parts to convert it to electronic although I have not completed that conversion yet.

I saw in the 1966 service memo, #306 dated 3/31/66, that parts were then available to switch to the stronger 31 roller rod and crank and all the part numbers needed were listed. My plan became changing the case and crank to the revised version if the parts ever could be found.

With the ignition off my saw I can see the part number on the case, 58410-C. Since this saw has a longer stroke than any of the other XL's, the case needs more room to swing the rod big end. The service memo lists PN A-59801-B which is superseded by A-59801-C for the big rod. As you can see, these do not match what is in the saw. Other numbers are listed for the other shorter stroke saws.

I checked two other parts saws I have, both SXLAO's, one has 58410-C and the other 58401-E. Both of those saws have the shorter stroke of the standard SXLAO so I am confused about what is going on.

I have been unable to find the 58410 number anywhere, the IPL I have for the XL500 lists the 59801-B as original equipment. Since I have owned this saw from new, I know it has never been in a shop for a repair of any sort.

Can anyone shed some light on this part number issue?
Thanks,
Dan

[onlyhomelites]

Hey Dan,

The number on the case is a casting number...the case likely came with the bearing & crank seal installed, so that's why it would have the part# A-59801-B for the entire assembly. In terms of finding a proper crankcase, good luck! I've been looking for one for years to add to my collection of parts for the XL-500 that I hope to own someday! I'm just guessing here, but since the original XL-500 used the same crankshaft as a Super XL, the throw clearance on a later SXL case should be okay. The problem is the machining for the XL-500 cylinder skirt. I hate to say it, but it may be easier in the long run to pay a machine shop to modify a late SXL crankcase to accept the XL-500 cylinder. I don't think the A-59801-C was a high volume part, so the odds of one turning up are somewhat slim. Hopefully someone else can chime in here...maybe there's a better answer.

[onlyhomelites]

I must correct the record here, I was wrong when I stated that the Super XL & XL-500 used the same crankshaft. I had an error in my homebuilt database...they are definitely NOT the same!

[Clasec]

I have often thought that Homelite when building the XL500 may have offset ground the SXL crank for the added stroke, and in turn used a smaller rod to fit the reduced size of the journal. That way it would clear the stock SXL crankcase and save on manufacturing costs.

[sweepleader]

Jan 1, 2017 1:12:20 GMT -5 Clasec said:

thought that Homelite when building the XL500 may have offset ground the SXL crank for the added stroke, and in turn used a smaller rod to fit the reduced size of the journal.

The SXL and the others all used the same size journal and 29 roller set until the factory changed all to the larger 31 roller rod and crank. The XL-500 was nearly discontinued by then but still supported. As Leon (onlyhomelites) pointed out to me, the cylinder skirt may be larger on the 2" bore XL-500 requiring a different case machining regardless of the rod size so it would be simple to also machine for the longer throw. He has some parts for the XL-400 we have come to terms on and I am going to see exactly how they fit or don't fit together with my XL-500 cylinder. This is going to get interesting.

[Clasec]

I have an XL400 disassembled. If you need any measurements let me know.

[sweepleader]

Thanks CLASEC, I don't yet, but maybe when the parts arrive. I suppose it will be a week or more before I get to that stage. I should have everything here to compare. Actually, if you have the 400 cylinder available, maybe you might let me know the skirt size where it slides into the crankcase. Also, is it stepped? (more than one diameter?) I won't be getting that part so I would just have measured the crankcase bore and hoped a guess on the clearance was correct. Can you measure it to the nearest .001? Also if you are in the mood a picture or two of the skirt might prove helpful, just to make sure the configuration is the same as the 500.

As I said, I am hoping (hope is not a plan...) the 400 and 500 skirts are the same. That would be too good to be true though so I expect to be disappointed on that issue. Thanks for the offer, it just might prove to provide information that I could not get any other way.

Happy New Year!

[undee70ss]

XL500 spec sheet

[sweepleader]

Thanks for the spec sheet, it is in my collection now!
Dan

[Clasec]

Dan here are the pictures you asked for. The skirt outer diameter is 2.123" and it extends .400" down it is not stepped. Cylinder casting number is 68179-A. I also measured the bore in the crankcase it is 2.128" and casting number is 68357. If you need more info let me know. Charles 

[sweepleader]

Hi Charles,

Thanks, USPS still has my parts so I don't know what I am getting yet.

This is all good information and I appreciate the effort, nice photos. I am glad to learn there is no step on the skirt, this might be possible.

I am expecting the parts to show up in the next day or so and then this project will be under way.

I am excited,

Thanks again,
Dan

[sweepleader]

Well, my parts came and I am into this project. I don't have the XL-500 apart yet, getting the other parts out of my parts pile first. Needed the rollers for the rod bearing and the drive case from a straight gassed SXLAO that I got for parts. Got the rod and rollers out but the crank has stumped me for the moment. The two screws that retain it in the drive case each have half the head broken off. Only one side of the screwdriver slot remains. I don't know if the factory did that or if the parts went out the exhaust. There is no damage evident so who knows. Anyone seen that before? I have to admit that this is the first time pulling a crank for me so I have no experience to go on for this.





I could possibly weld them out or grind the heads off completely. Either way is trouble and if the screws in the XL-500 are the same I will be needing new screws I guess. Any thoughts?
Thanks

[lesorubcheek]

Never encountered any completely broken. Seen a few that only had a little to bite, so used a hammer type impact removal tool along with a heat gun to get them loose. The top pic looks like it may have enough left to bite, but the bottom pic sure looks like its gonna need help. Don't think its normal to be broken like that. Maybe they sheared off when they were installed?

Dan

[Clasec]

Might be able to use a pointed bit die grinder to remove the washer next to the bearing and with the crankshaft removed weld a nut to the screw head to remove the screw. Still no fun welding close to magnesium as it will burn. Charles.

[sweepleader]

Thanks for your thoughts guys. I am sure that the screws will come out, I have grinders and a TIG welder so that is not really the problem. The bearing is pressed on the crank so it would be damaged if I tried to push the crank out of it while the bearing was still in the drive case. It would be nice not to damage the bearing cuz the shaft is good and could be reused. On the other hand, I don't have a use for the shaft just now so sacrificing the bearing is not a huge deal. I will likely take the XL-500 apart before I get too carried away with this problem and see what I find there, that will likely guide my thoughts on how to handle this. I will let you know how it goes.
Dan