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Post by kabbott on Apr 8, 2014 20:16:26 GMT -5
I'm a newbie here and a newbie to Homelite chainsaws. I picked up a nice C-5 recently. When I first got it, it started up and idled just fine. Then, I would start cutting small logs for about 10 minutes or so and in between logs I would sit the C-5 down and then it would die. I couldn't get it to remain running. It would start and then when I would give it gas it would just die. Once I waited until it cooled off, then it would last another 10 minutes or so and do the same thing. Now, after letting it sit and cool, it will start, but I can't keep it running. It will just die once I give it gas.
I'm using a 50:1 Husqvarna mixture and 92 octane gas. I haven't messed with the H or L screws since it was running just fine originally. Now I can't keep it running long enough to even change the screws to see if it will make a difference.
The guy I bought it from cleaned the carb and put a carb kit in it before I bought it. He also put in a new spark plug. I think that is all he did. He thinks it might be a clogged fuel filter, but from the diagram of the fuel tank, it is hard to tell how to change it. Also, I can't seem to find the fuel filter anywhere on the web (nor directions on how to change it). Any ideas on what you think the problem might be would be appreciated. I will try to attach pictures of my C-5 in another post.
My plans are to use the C-5 to do chainsaw milling in the future. Right now, I'm just cleaning up some large red oaks that came down in a storm last summer.
Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by sawnami on Apr 9, 2014 6:47:27 GMT -5
There should be a strainer on the end of the fuel hose in the tank. Might check to make sure that the felt disc or sleeve is intact. If not, sediment from the tank will get into the carburetor and restrict fuel.
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Post by kabbott on Apr 9, 2014 7:35:28 GMT -5
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doug40
Collector wannabe
Posts: 16 
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Post by doug40 on Apr 20, 2014 8:18:54 GMT -5
I would replace the fuel line and filter. Start by removing the tank from the saw. You will have to take the air filter and cover off to remove the fuel line from the carb. The fuel tank is in 2 pcs and held together with slotted screws. Carefully remove the screws. Once you have the tank apart you can replace the parts as needed. The only difficult part is making the new gasket. The auto parts store should have the paper material for making your own gasket. Fel-pro is a good brand. Don't use rtv it won't last. Trace and cut out your new gasket. Make sure the surfaces are perfectly clean and put back together paying close attention that the gasket is centered. You shouldn't have to cut out for the screw holes but if you wanted to you could use a punch and a hammer. Hopefully, that should get you back in business. If you still have trouble with it stalling at idle it's possible that the low speed adjustment is too rich. Try turning the L screw in 1/4 turn at a time. The idle should pick up a little bit. Don't go too far and as long as it's running good in the cut then the high side is adjusted properly. If you think there's a problem with the high side then ask for help from some one you can trust. That can be very tricky and ruin things in a hurry. Hope that helps.
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Post by dancbx on Apr 20, 2014 19:11:17 GMT -5
There should be a strainer on the end of the fuel hose in the tank. Might check to make sure that the felt disc or sleeve is intact. If not, sediment from the tank will get into the carburetor and restrict fuel. I wouldn't recommend splitting the tank,I would pull the tank off as whole- there should be 3-4 srews that hold the tank to the saw, then you have access to the fitting in the tank where you can change the in tank line and the one to the carb. I just did this on an XP1020 with the same frame. I am thinking your fuel lines, filter are toast. I think theres a screen in the carb too, but I can't be sure on this one... |
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Post by kabbott on Apr 21, 2014 8:35:43 GMT -5
Thanks doug40 and dancbx. I appreciate your expert advice. I fished out the fuel filter and took the fuel filter off and couldn't see any sediment that had come into it. Also, there is no longer a strainer on it. Just a fuel filter on the end of the fuel line. So, I cleaned up the fuel filter and turned it upside down and knocked it out just in case there was something in there I couldn't see. I would like to replace the fuel line and filter like both of you suggest. I haven't been able to find those parts anywhere to buy them. dancbx, where did you buy your fuel filter and line for your XP1020? I'm sure it probably just a generic fuel line and filter, but I want to make sure I purchase the correct ones. After putting the fuel filter back on, it ran like it should. I was able to see a little bit of sediment at the bottom of the fuel tank. Is there someway I can get that out of the tank? I was wondering if I could duck tape a small plastic tube on the end of a wet/dry vac and suck it out (after I have emptied the tank).
Now, my next problem is the saw bar and chain locking up after I user it for a while. I will do maybe 1 or 2 cuts on a medium size log and the chain freezes up. I had the chain adjusted correctly where it would turn around the bar with no problem and the chain and it had a little bit of give to it, but not too much. It is like it freezes after I cut for a while. I can hardly move the chain on the bar. I readjust the tensioner and then it does the same thing again after a few cuts. I checked the sprocket and it could stand to be replaced, but I wouldn't think that would be the problem. The bar came with the saw and it doesn't appear to have any burs and it appears to be true. I don't know if the bar needs replaced or not. Any ideas on this next problem would be appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. I really appreciate it.
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Post by dancbx on Apr 21, 2014 12:32:24 GMT -5
Thanks doug40 and dancbx. I appreciate your expert advice. I fished out the fuel filter and took the fuel filter off and couldn't see any sediment that had come into it. Also, there is no longer a strainer on it. Just a fuel filter on the end of the fuel line. So, I cleaned up the fuel filter and turned it upside down and knocked it out just in case there was something in there I couldn't see. I would like to replace the fuel line and filter like both of you suggest. I haven't been able to find those parts anywhere to buy them. dancbx, where did you buy your fuel filter and line for your XP1020? I'm sure it probably just a generic fuel line and filter, but I want to make sure I purchase the correct ones. After putting the fuel filter back on, it ran like it should. I was able to see a little bit of sediment at the bottom of the fuel tank. Is there someway I can get that out of the tank? I was wondering if I could duck tape a small plastic tube on the end of a wet/dry vac and suck it out (after I have emptied the tank). Now, my next problem is the saw bar and chain locking up after I user it for a while. I will do maybe 1 or 2 cuts on a medium size log and the chain freezes up. I had the chain adjusted correctly where it would turn around the bar with no problem and the chain and it had a little bit of give to it, but not too much. It is like it freezes after I cut for a while. I can hardly move the chain on the bar. I readjust the tensioner and then it does the same thing again after a few cuts. I checked the sprocket and it could stand to be replaced, but I wouldn't think that would be the problem. The bar came with the saw and it doesn't appear to have any burs and it appears to be true. I don't know if the bar needs replaced or not. Any ideas on this next problem would be appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. I really appreciate it. Glad to help. Parkinlube, (elseware on this site)has a lot of Homelite parts but for the filter most small engine shops or even like True Value or ACE hardware should have filters to match. For the fuel line that can be tricky, Homelite LOOOOOved to use formed fuel lines to fit a larger than needed hose barb then neck down to fit a smaller barb on the opposite end. I used a 1/4" hose like from an old car from the tank to the carb. on my 1020! In tank is usually much smaller and a more flexible line (the clear or colored thin walled hose). I would not suck even minute amounts of gas or vapors with a vacuum- static- spark- boom:). You could rinse the tank with diesel or kerosene, but I don't get to exicited about sediment (unless its bad) in the tank if you have a filter, it will wash itself off and fall to the bottom of the tank and find a home there. The bar issue- perhaps wrong chain vs bar gauge.... Can you turn the clutch and or pull the engine over without the bar and chain right after it "locks" up? |
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doug40
Collector wannabe
Posts: 16
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Post by doug40 on Apr 21, 2014 20:59:18 GMT -5
I know what you mean with the chain locking up. Thats happened to me twice with 2 different saws. I have to think its too tight to start with. As far as you fuel line size, I used 1/4 I.D. tygon for inside the tank and 5/16 I.D. to the carb. The line to the carb has to be a thin wall tubing like tygon in order for it to fit thru the hole. Hope that helps.
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