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Post by daniel on May 15, 2010 18:01:40 GMT -5
I bought an older Homelite XL chainsaw with a 10 or 12" bar. It cranked up right out of the box (with fresh fuel of course). But, the oiler hasn't worked since I got it. Not a drop reaches the bar. I replaced all of the oil lines, added the duckbill valve, which was missing, and when I put it back together...nothing! So, I took it back apart and I think I figured out what's wrong, but I need some input! I'm sure this being the House of Homelite, I'll skip to the details. Pressure from the crankcase pressures the oil tank and pushes oil to the chain. Well, the tank pressures up just fine, but oil doesn't reach the second fitting, as pictured it's the bottom most arrow (fitting removed). I can't blow any air through it, so I'm not sure what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Attachments:
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Post by MCS on May 15, 2010 19:08:29 GMT -5
There were two general designs of oiler systems that I am aware of. The original design actually had a pump, but the tank was still pressurized. The second design eliminated the pump and only used a pressurized tank. The pump is behind the clutch and can be identified by a rectangular cover with three screws. I think you have a pump but check and make sure. Some models actually had the pump mounted on the carburetor but I've never seen one of these. Once we know for sure which style you have, we can figure out what is wrong. BTW, I had one of my XLs running today and it sure is a neat little saw for trimming and small trees  |
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Post by daniel on May 15, 2010 20:17:35 GMT -5
Yes, my model has the oil pump. I know the rectangular cover you're describing. I started to dissassemble it earlier today, but didn't want to start on it without knowing what to look for. I agree with you, those little xl's are great. It's so much easier to grab that little guy than pull out a larger saw! Thanks in advance!
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Post by MCS on May 15, 2010 21:53:58 GMT -5
Here is a diagram of the oiler.  Uploaded with ImageShack.usNote the three red circles. The crankcase pulse goes to the pump chamber and then to the oil tank. There is a duckbill inside the take and connected to the hose with a porous fitting. There should be just a slight gap between the duckbill and the hose to bleed off pressure when idling or turned off. |
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Post by daniel on May 15, 2010 22:42:20 GMT -5
Great! That's the system I have. Well I'm guessing there's something foul inside the diaphragm assembly or the pump body. As per the diagram, the oil tank pressure line is pressurizing the oil tank and oil is reaching the oil inlet line, but it is not coming through to the fitting leading to the bar/chain. I'll show this is a posted picture also. I installed the duckbill valve in the oil tank (and gas tank), but I was unaware of a porous fitting. If i'm guessing right, this shouldn't affect the functionality of the oiler; if anything, oil would just continue to run out during idle or when turned off. At least until the pressure would bleed out, right? Attachments:
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Post by daniel on May 31, 2010 8:49:57 GMT -5
Alright I opened up the pump, but I'm not able to remove the guts to get to the check valve. I'm not even sure that's my problem. But that's the last piece to the puzzle, because as far as I can tell, everything else on the oiler assmbly works fine. For example; the crankcase pressures the oil tank, oil goes into the oil inlet into th pump, but it does not come out the other end of the assembly! So it's got to be something inside thE pump. I'm just not sure how to go about fixing it!
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Post by MCS on May 31, 2010 9:31:20 GMT -5
Alright I opened up the pump, but I'm not able to remove the guts to get to the check valve. I'm not even sure that's my problem. But that's the last piece to the puzzle, because as far as I can tell, everything else on the oiler assmbly works fine. For example; the crankcase pressures the oil tank, oil goes into the oil inlet into th pump, but it does not come out the other end of the assembly! So it's got to be something inside thE pump. I'm just not sure how to go about fixing it! In the earlier post you said you installed a new duckbill in the oil tank. That duckbill is on the end of the pulse line that goes from the oil pump to the tank - right? How is it mounted to the hose? You cannot remove the pump body without destroying it because it has to be drilled and tapped and pulled with a puller to get it out. You can test the check ball operation with low pressure air. Use something to plug the oil inlet port then gently apply air to the pump bore and you should have air coming out the outlet port. Then apply gentle air to the oil outlet port and there shouldn't be any air coming out the pump bore. |
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tcpost
Groundie
I have a xl 2 that runs ok but when I add oil to the reservoir the crankcase fills with oil
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Post by tcpost on Oct 15, 2016 14:27:19 GMT -5
Hello I have a XL2 that is leaking oil into the combustion chamber. Have to take out plug and empty, but oil is still being forced into the chamber. Smoke pours out when running |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Oct 15, 2016 15:56:14 GMT -5
Welcome to HOH! Look for a duckbill valve remnant and cintered tube in the bottom of your oil tank (they like to fall off when old hoses get soft). You need the tube and valve (which likely needs replaced) in your upper hose in the oil tank. That's a one-way setup allowing pressure to build in the tank, but not allow oil back into the crankcase. The other possibility is that someone assembled the saw with the hoses backwards at some point...I've seen this many times. Here's an IPL for your saw that should help show what I'm talking about: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_xl-2_chainsaw_ipl_24752_revision_2_.pdfIndex# 65 & 66 are what I'm talking about...if they are missing, you likely need to tear the saw apart and do new hoses. |
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Post by undee70ss on Oct 17, 2016 6:36:58 GMT -5
Your hoses should look like this  |
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Post by undee70ss on Oct 17, 2016 6:38:31 GMT -5
Duckbill in oil tank should look like this.  |
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Post by Supercharged86 on Oct 26, 2016 11:53:39 GMT -5
Then after all of that it still might not work because the oil pump diaphragm is NG. Remove the small diaphragm cover on the clutch side (of course removing the clutch drum is always a hassle on these with that stupid snap ring setup) and inspect the diaphragm. Pay particular attention to where the diaphragm is fastened to the metal stem (the diaphragm should not spin on the stem). Some how this loosens up and creates a leak thereby not allowing crankcase pulses to actuate the pump correctly. Simply re-tighten the stem by carefully re-peening the end. I have had this situation several times. I even made a inspection cover to see what the diaphragm was doing as the motor spun. This led me to finding the leak at the stem. See this thread: houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/5131/xl-oiler-question Good luck, Steve |
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