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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2023 10:18:02 GMT -5
Blythkd told me I could use red Loctite around the crank seals to get a better seal. I just happen to have two SKF seals for this saw. Like I said before, I'm terrible with installing seals. So, wish me luck. I'm going to do this today, pictures coming soon.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 18, 2023 10:57:48 GMT -5
I've only replaced a handful of seals on various saws (Jonsered,Mac,Homelite) & have found the best thing is to use plenty of lube & TAKE YOUR TIME.Don't try to rush things.I've also found that getting the seals OUT on the PTO side is a real challenge.
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Post by bobby167 on Mar 18, 2023 11:14:59 GMT -5
Get some pvc pipe the size of the seal outer metal side. Put a cap on one end, to tap on. Carefully tap it,making sure the seal is going in straight.Take your time!! Have used this method for many years on working with heavy equipment & small engines seals. Hole in pipe will go over most shafts.Saves bundle of money buying seal drivers. Also saves the seal from damage from metal punches & such.
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Post by blythkd on Mar 18, 2023 11:18:33 GMT -5
I'll remember that pvc pipe thing. If you find a piece relatively close to the crankshaft size and get a good square end on it, that would be a good approach. Assuming 1/2" cpvc would be good for many sizes of saws?
I've typically found a deep socket that fit the crankshaft very close to ensure it was driving straight. I don't have seal drivers either.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2023 14:22:59 GMT -5
Thanks for PVC pipe trick, it made a HUGE difference for me. I cleaned the inside with acetone and q-tips. I'll give the full 24 hour cure time for this one. Thanks again guys, you're the best!!!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2023 19:00:59 GMT -5
I had everything back together except the throttle link because I couldn't find it. I had an extra laying around from an XL and figured it would work. After yelling and swearing for 30 minutes I finally got it. I'm usually really good with those and I was wondering why I couldn't get it. I pulled the trigger and looked at the carb and saw it wasn't pushing the throttle arm on the carb all the way down. It dawned on me, not all throttle links are the same length. I checked the IPL for the VI Super 2 and the XL and found the part numbers don't match. I have no idea how I was able to get a shorter throttle link to fit, but it did. There is no way I'm getting that out without cutting it. Man, I was heated. Haven't been that wound up in years. Tools and cuss words were flying everywhere.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 22, 2023 20:22:54 GMT -5
Now I know I'm not alone,Lol.I've become fairly adept at making up new cuss words
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 22, 2023 20:28:01 GMT -5
For a homemade seal driver I use an old worn out rim drive & lay that right on top of the seal.Then I have a 6 in.piece of 1/2 pipe with a reducer from 3/4 to 1/2 in.screwed onto the pipe.I put the reducer end on the rim & tap away.I think I got the idea from XL130 (Trevor).
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Post by blythkd on Mar 22, 2023 20:50:46 GMT -5
That throttle linkage can certainly be a challenge with the wrong one, that's for sure. At least you know what you gotta do now:)
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2023 20:21:37 GMT -5
I found the correct throttle link. Saw fired up and ran. It passed the tip test and I think the repair was successful. Now that the air leak is gone, I was tuning the carb and have problems. High speed is perfect. I can't get it to run correctly at low speed. It will will either run too rich or too lean. It will fluctuate right where the correct low setting needs to be. The carb is an HDC 67. I have a HDC 65 from a XL that I know works perfectly. I haven't removed the carbs to see if they match up, but I will do that tomorrow.
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Post by blythkd on Mar 23, 2023 20:34:49 GMT -5
Choke levers will be different, at least. They could be swapped. Or if you're just wanting to put the other carb on it as a trial to prove out the carb theory, you could probably do it and leave the little plastic cover off by the choke lever so you can use the choke. Not sure but it might work. Never tried it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2023 20:48:29 GMT -5
I'll leave the plastic cover off just to test the carb theory. I have a super 2 and an xl-2 I can pull the carbs from if I need to, just have to rebuild the carbs as they are parts saws.Thanks so much for help, billy.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2023 16:18:28 GMT -5
So I made an amateur mistake. I didn't have the oil line long enough or routed properly. It was pinching under the carb and causing an air leak, opposite side of the pulse hole. I was getting a pulse to pump fuel but air was getting in. I fixed that problem and kept the original carb on, which is a HDC 64, not a 67. Now the saw idles perfect and I'm playing with the high setting. Going to put the bar on later. Go ahead and laugh, I did.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2023 19:38:25 GMT -5
Put the bar on, 10 inch. Fired it up and tuned the carb. I have the idle set higher than I want but it will die if I go lower. Put the saw into an oak log and let it rip and boy did it rip. Thanks for your all your help guys, especially blythkd. I'm so happy this saw worked out, I thought it was dead.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2023 9:20:29 GMT -5
I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out how the throttle safety assembly in the handle goes back together. The throttle stop on the carb, the part the throttle link attaches to, jammed very hard. I thought the problem was the linkage inside the handle, so I took it apart. I have the throttle linkage assembled, but just can't get the safety trigger assembly to work. I printed out the IPL from Leon, but just can't get things to work. I think the spring may be worn, it's kind of bent out of shape. I squeezed the spring so it works better, but not great. I ordered a new spring. I looked at all the pictures of new replacement springs and they appear to be a different style than what I have, I could be wrong. Spring part number is 70591. If anyone has experience with one of these, please help.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 31, 2023 20:49:05 GMT -5
Your spring is broken...it should have a hook on both ends:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2023 7:35:31 GMT -5
Thank you.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2023 8:54:45 GMT -5
A total of 837 attempts to finish this saw, but it's complete. Thanks to everyone for contributing. This saw was going to be for parts and now, in my opinion, it's perfect!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2023 15:41:11 GMT -5
The other day I was attempting to start this saw and something locked up and broke both starter pawls. I took the flywheel off an XL and put it on, both were phelon. The saw started and ran fine for awhile. I made several cuts without issue. The saw just died at idle and now I can't get it started. I was thinking the carb was the issue. I haven't taken it apart yet. Since the saw was running fine, I don't think the flywheel is the problem. What do you guys think?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 12, 2023 22:12:34 GMT -5
Hard to say...I'd check for spark first.
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