Still can't pull start 330 #2

[blythkd]

I don't know. I've never seen one trying to fire so advanced as to keep it from cranking. Only way I could see that happening is if the flywheel key is sheared and the flywheel has moved on the crankshaft. But you said it did crank normally for some amount of time so that doesn't really add up.

I'm afraid I'm pretty well at a loss at this point. I don't know if I have any more ideas without having the saw in my hands.

[esaw1]

Sounds like everything that has been tried hasn't made the problem better or any worse. Just a thought here, if the saw spins free with the plug out and torn down to just the engine but is hard to turn or won't turn when assembled with bottom case and handle on, that warrants a look at the anti-vibe mounts and the castings the bushings sit in. My thought being that if the AV bushings are worn badly,or the mounts are damaged the entire motor is shifting or shifted off center of the starter pawl causing a side load on the starter pulley locking it in place. Again, just an outside the box thought as the plastic starter components aren't very robust on the 330. This could possibly explain why the problem stays with the bad saw when components are swapped from your good one. If you have a helper, you could shine a light through the starter housing while someone tries the pull to see if the motor is deflecting/shifting. With how you've described everything it should be pretty easy to see if that is happening.

[blythkd]

That rubber mount thought crossed my mind earlier, I just wasn't convinced it would cause the issue due to the way the starter lug locks into the flywheel on a 330. But at this point, I suppose everything is worth a look. You should just be able to watch the spark plug and spark plug boot as you try to crank it to see if it remains fairly stable or tries to jump around.

A simple rubber mount check would be to put the bar on, sit the saw on the ground, step on the top of the saw with your foot or hold it down with one hand and grab the bar with your other hand and try to move it up and down. You could compare it to the other "good" saw that does start normally if you're not sure how stiff the mounts should be. Even when they're in good shape on a 330, they're typically fairly soft as rubber mounts go, in my opinion.

[ibmike]

esaw1, you may have hit on my problem.I do notice when pulling the starter rope I can see the muffler stiffing back and forth, not much but could be enough to bind the flywheel against the starter lug.Billy I will try the bar suggestion, I looked at the rubber mounts many times taking it apart and back together, they appear to be good, but they are 40 years old.I will start 330#1 and see if its muffler moves any.Thanks guys I really appreciate your help.

[esaw1]

On my 330 I get about 1/8 inch movement from the muffler when pulling the starter. This saw was in a heated garage since new and barely used so the bushings are pretty tight, should give you a baseline to compare against, along with the previous bar suggestion and your good saw.

[ibmike]

I get no movement at all from 330 #1 when pulling the starter, solid as a rock. Even revving the saw its solid.Yesterday I removed the top bushing, mushy but no rips are tears (clutch side) on #2 and rigged a solid mount and the pull starter still hangs up. Back apart it goes, to check the other two bushings.

[blythkd]

In the "old" days, as long as there wasn't a hole through the side of a mount, it was good. I suppose as times goes by the rubber mounts could be getting soft. It would be nice if you had a good one to compare to. If they're getting mushy that's not good even if it's not causing the hard crank issue.

[ibmike]

I always have the option of testing it with the rubber mounts from 330#1, just hate to mess with that saw.