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Post by hotrodsuperxl on Feb 19, 2011 17:21:36 GMT -5
when it comes to two stroke oil, whats the best? im trying some synthetic stuff right now that has a claim that you mix a set amout of oil per gallon regaurdless of ratio required by manufacturer. i have never believed that statement and always add more oil. when it comes to saws, is synthetic better? and do our ole homelites benefit from it?
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Post by tribulation138 on Feb 19, 2011 20:35:06 GMT -5
My assumption is that pretty much any of todays brand of oil is way better than the oils use back in days our old homies were built. I think thats why the oil to fuel ratio was higher. Buts that my opinion.
Anyways I try to stay with a synthetic brand or one with stabilizers in it.
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Post by canucksaw on Feb 22, 2011 20:06:58 GMT -5
Well... I personally run most of my stuff at 32:1 using Lawn Boy oil (I have a fleet of them, as well). Some of the newer synthetic stuff is reaaally slippery, but I cringe at the thought of running 50 year old equipment on mixtures as lean as 100:1. I have rebuilt a 1955 Lawn Boy C series (babbitt rod and lower main) engine that suffered a lack of lubrication failure, and tossed the rod through the crankcase, running a 50:1 Stihl dinosaur oil. Have seen a couple of others, as well. Personally, I'd rather smoke out the neighbors than take any chances. Note, though, that I'm not an engineer...
And yes, any new oil is better than the straight weight, ND oil that was recommended when Ike was in office.
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Post by MCS on Feb 22, 2011 22:05:45 GMT -5
Homelite oil from the '60s and '70s was labeled 16:1 and 32:1. The 32:1 came out in the early '70 and was 40 wgt where the 16:1 was 30 wgt. It was all petroleum base with some additives that improved mixing with fuel and reducing deposits. I have worked on many saws that were run at 16:1 using ND motor oil and when the exhaust was uncovered all that was there was a tiny opening - just about carboned shut. The newer oils have definitely reduce carbon buildup. When you look back and see the specs stating 16:1 or 32:1, remember those specification were established based on the oil available at the time. Homelite said the 32:1 was good for all the saws so it was acceptable to run 32:1 in the C-5s and like. Look at the typical Homelite design that was used on just about all the saws: 1) Chrome lined cylinders 2) Ball bearings at the clutch side and needles at the ignition side. 3) Needle bearing at the connection rod journal. 4) Needle bearing in the wrist pin. Everything had some type of bearing and no bushings. This is why they run forever if you use good oil.
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Post by hotrodsuperxl on Feb 23, 2011 8:16:02 GMT -5
while oil may be important lets discuss fuel for a moment. gasoline no longer has lead in it, not a big deal for two strokes, though it was a lube of sorts. Fuel now has ETHENOL in it and that CRAP is not good for engines. i dont care what anybody says, that sh!t is not good for your engine or carb. Another product i will reccomend is a Lucas oils product, it an upper cylinder lube , add lubricity to fuel without adding smoke to yor exhaust.
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Post by MCS on Feb 23, 2011 8:53:58 GMT -5
Since ethanol is here to stay and finding non-oxygenated fuel to run in off road vehicles, small engines, and outboards is difficult, we will have to live with what is at the pumps. The absence of lead is not a problem for two stoke engines. Ethanol has two issues that I know of that affect small engine operation: affinity of water and elevated combustion chamber temperature. The water issue can be controlled by proper storage and the used of isopropyl in the fuel. The elevated combustion temperature can be controlled to some extent by making sure the carburetor settings are not too lean.
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Post by 925fetish on Feb 23, 2011 12:08:20 GMT -5
You might think me crazy,but I've been using Mobil One synthetic motor oil mixed 40:1 in mine for 2 years now.I've cut 15-20 good loads on my F-150 and a couple of 16 ft. trailer loads of hedge.This has served me well.It's cleaned up the piston,cyl,and muffler on everything that i"ve run it in.The only thing I've had an issue with is that it smells funny.
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Post by MCS on Feb 23, 2011 15:24:50 GMT -5
You might think me crazy,but I've been using Mobil One synthetic motor oil mixed 40:1 in mine for 2 years now. Ya, I think your right Mobil 1 and the other synthetic oils are good but they have additives added for 4 cycle operation plus they are multi-viscosity. When the oil is cold it is 10 weight and when it warm it is 40 weight. What would be the proper mixing? I think a good quality 2 cycle oil designated for air cooled engines would be a better alternative. I'm using low smoke, low odor, synthetic snowmobile oil. My snowmobiles have similar engine design comparing to chain saws. Chrome cylinders, roller and ball bearing, and high RPMs. But then, to each his own....
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Post by 925fetish on Feb 23, 2011 15:47:12 GMT -5
I wasn't convinced either,but a fella that has his own logging company and wins alot in events all around recommended it,and I have not been let down by anything he ever told me.
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Post by topgut on Feb 24, 2011 3:27:39 GMT -5
I use Amsoil Sabre mixed at 32:1 in all my saws. Never had a failure yet. Small investment to protect my saws IMO.
Good luck
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Post by hotrodsuperxl on Feb 24, 2011 14:29:58 GMT -5
i want to find some "Royal purple" two stroke oil.....
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Post by jrstrines on Feb 26, 2011 12:16:55 GMT -5
I use Amsoil Sabre mixed at 32:1 in all my saws. Never had a failure yet. Small investment to protect my saws IMO. Good luck Amsoil Sabre has 2 thumbs up from me. I have been using it for about 6 years now and have never had any problem. ( Well ok....one used lawnboy but that had a hefty knock in the engine when I got it....cant really blame that one on me) I was very skeptical on running the leaner Ratios (100:1 Recommended) so I have kept a close eye to make sure of no problems and things have been great with this oil. Not too mention sure use a whole lot less. I am running this in all of mine going all the way back to the era of 770g's and 7-19's and they love it. As far as the Ethanol problem has anyone tried the Startron fuel treatment? Dealer down the road here swears by it. An Ethanol treatment, stabilizer, and engine/carb cleaner in one. I had been using Seafoam but am no longer able to get Ethanol free fuel locally and now need something to treat the Ethanol also. If this stuff is half as good as the dealer tells me it should be great but was curious if anyone here has had any experience with it.
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Post by hotrodsuperxl on Feb 26, 2011 16:13:26 GMT -5
i havent heard of that stuff JR, (fuel treatment). ive also heard good things about amsoil. sta-bil makes a fuel stablizer for ethenol blended fuel also.
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Post by cjkcustoms on Feb 10, 2012 18:17:02 GMT -5
hi im new here i have an old c-91 with a 24 inch bar and just got it running yesterday and before i run it any further i was wondering what i should mix up for a fuel ratio using regular 2 cycle oil and pump gas.
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Post by tribulation138 on Feb 10, 2012 19:58:50 GMT -5
hi im new here i have an old c-91 with a 24 inch bar and just got it running yesterday and before i run it any further i was wondering what i should mix up for a fuel ratio using regular 2 cycle oil and pump gas. everybody has there own opinions. but todays oil is alot better than the old days. SO now you can get away using a old homelite saw with up to 40:1 ratio fuel. I run all my small engines on 32:1 with out a problem. I wouldnt recommend 50:1. SO me use it though
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Post by MCS on Feb 10, 2012 21:21:42 GMT -5
Along with what is already in this thread, Stihl specifically states in their owner's guide that TCW rated oil is not to be used. If you do not know, TCW oil is for Two Cycle Water cooled engines - that means outboard motors. Air cooled engines run much hotter then water cooled engines.
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Post by tommyhnavix on Feb 11, 2012 10:19:53 GMT -5
Also TCW oils contain ammonia. It takes the oil film from the exhaust in the water that would normally be on the surface and suffacte the fish to the bottom of the lake. It is corrosive to aluminum and not good for chainsaw engines.
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Post by tommyhnavix on Feb 11, 2012 10:58:09 GMT -5
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Post by MCS on Feb 11, 2012 11:44:01 GMT -5
That first link has one of the best write-ups of two cycle that I've read.
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Post by tommyhnavix on Feb 12, 2012 17:49:46 GMT -5
I have sold and used Amsoil 2 cycle oil for over 20 years with no problems what so ever. Had a really good sales man when I started that also did a lot of sawing. Many people were very sceptical of 100:1 mix as was I. Thats 1 and 1/4 ounce per gallon. He suggested and had been using 64:1. That is 2 ounces per gallon. At that rate 1 quart will do 15 gallons. At about $12.00 per quart thats still pretty economical. It makes great sense. Extra lube, extra protection, works great for older saws, even16:1 saws, still very little smoking or plug fouling at that rate. These new saw run so lean and just scream , some with no adjustment screws this mix slows them down a little and gives extra protection against running lean. I have regular cutters running it and tree services to. All brands and ages of saws. At that mix you can easily fudge a little and not be to lean. Also some of them, against my wishes ,have been using 10% ethenol fuel with no failures related to lubrication. The tree service guys like it because they go through a lot of help and the mix ratio is easy to remember, and if the new guy buys etenol and doesn't say anything the saws keep right on a running. One gallon:2 ounces 1 1/2 gallon:3 ounces 2 gallons:4 ounces 5 gallons:10 ounces Easy to remember. Also if something causes the saw to run lean, a vacuum leak for instance or some one messes with the adjusting screws, the saw has extra lube protection. They seem to last a lot longer. It makes a lot of sense and has worked great for me and my customers with no complaints yet. Tom
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